The pre-pour sequence starts with a vapor barrier on the prepared sub-base, followed by rigid foam insulation board to prevent heat loss downward into the ground. PEX tubing is then laid out in loops at consistent spacing across the slab area and tied to the rebar grid. Before any concrete is placed, the tubing is pressure-tested to confirm there are no leaks in the loop.
After the slab cures, the system connects to a boiler and a manifold that controls flow to each zone. A slab sensor monitors floor temperature and works with the thermostat to maintain the set point. The boiler is sized using an altitude-adjusted BTU load calculation, systems sized for lower elevations underperform in Golden’s cold winters.
The ‘is it worth it for a garage’ question comes down to how you use the space. A heated slab prevents the melt-and-refreeze cycle from tracked-in snow, keeps a workshop or gym usable through winter, and protects stored vehicles from temperature extremes. Once the concrete is poured, adding in-slab heat means breaking up the floor, the pre-pour window is the only cost-effective time to act.
Why Choose Us
Why Mountain Radiant Heat for your garage slab
Accountability at every stage, from the first load calculation to the post-install check.
Written Estimate Before Any Work
You receive an itemised estimate covering equipment, installation scope, and timeline before anything is scheduled.
Altitude-Adjusted Load Calculation
Every system is sized for Golden’s elevation so the boiler delivers the BTUs the slab actually needs in winter.
Post-Install Performance Check
After the slab cures and the system goes live, a check confirms the floor reaches set-point temperature as specified.
Vetted Local Partners
Enquiries connect to vetted independent installers who work the Golden area and the wider I-70 mountain corridor.
Full Scope Accountability
One enquiry covers the complete sequence: sub-base, insulation, tubing, pressure test, boiler, and controls.
Is adding heat to a garage slab worth the extra cost?
For a garage used regularly in winter, parking, a workshop, or storage, a heated slab pays back in usability. Golden’s freeze-thaw winters mean an unheated slab accumulates slush and moisture that limits the space for months. Adding heat during a planned pour is the lowest-cost window to do it.
What happens if I skip the pressure test before the pour?
A tubing failure found after the concrete sets requires cutting the slab to reach the damaged section. That repair costs far more than the pressure test. Every loop is tested and confirmed before concrete is ordered, that step is non-negotiable.
Can heat be added to an existing concrete slab?
Yes, using electric heating cables rather than PEX. Embedding new PEX tubing requires breaking out the existing concrete, which is rarely cost-effective. Electric cable systems can be installed on the surface or embedded during a slab replacement.
How long does a heated concrete slab last?
The concrete itself can last decades. The components most customers ask about are the tubing, manifold, and controls. PEX embedded correctly in a well-cured slab is durable; the manifold and thermostat are above-slab and serviceable without touching the concrete.
Why does the first heat cycle need to be slow?
New concrete still holds moisture after it reaches structural strength. Ramping heat too fast forces that moisture out quickly, which causes surface cracking. A stepped ramp-up over several days lets the slab dry gradually and protects the embed from thermal stress.
What is the downside of in-slab radiant heat?
The upfront cost is higher than a space heater, and a buried component failure is harder to access later. The mitigation is doing the prep correctly: insulation, pressure testing, and a proper cure. A slab built to spec rarely needs intervention once it is running.
Describe your garage project and we will arrange a local installer to evaluate the slab, size the system for your altitude, and put the full scope in writing before any work is scheduled.